Melasma 101: Why It’s Not Just “Dark Spots” and What You Can Do About It
- AnnMarie Ferrer
- 3 days ago
- 3 min read
Summer is here—let’s keep that skin clear! If you’ve noticed stubborn patches of brown or gray-brown pigment popping up on your cheeks, forehead, upper lip, or jawline—especially after sun exposure—you might be dealing with something a little more complex than your average dark spot.
Let’s talk about melasma: what it is, what causes it, and how to treat it the right way (spoiler alert: it’s not with just any pigment-fading cream).
So, What Is Melasma?
Melasma is a chronic form of hyperpigmentation, meaning it tends to stick around and needs long-term management. Unlike post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (like the marks left behind from acne), melasma is usually triggered by internal factors, like hormones, and made worse by things like heat and UV exposure.
It’s most commonly seen in people with medium to darker skin tones, but anyone can develop it. And while it’s not harmful, it can be frustrating—especially because it doesn’t always respond to typical skincare the way other pigment issues do.
What Causes Melasma?
Melasma doesn’t just show up for no reason. Here are a few of the most common triggers:
Hormonal shifts – pregnancy, birth control, hormone therapy
Sun exposure – even a few minutes a day adds up over time
Heat – yes, heat alone can trigger melasma (hello, hot yoga)
Genetics – it tends to run in families
Certain skincare ingredients or treatments – especially those that are too harsh or irritating
What makes melasma tricky is that it lives deeper in the skin—so surface-level treatments often don’t do the trick and can even make things worse if not used correctly.
Why a Professional Diagnosis Matters
Melasma often gets mistaken for other forms of pigmentation, and treating it the wrong way can make it darker or more resistant. That’s why it’s so important to get diagnosed by a licensed skincare professional who understands the condition. We know how tempting it is to throw every brightening serum in your cabinet at it—but trust us, a customized, strategic approach is key here.
Why We Avoid Heat (and Heat-Based Lasers)
Unlike other pigment issues, melasma is very sensitive to heat. That means lasers or treatments that generate heat—like IPL, BBL, or some resurfacing lasers—can actually worsen the condition.
At our practice, we’re extremely cautious when it comes to laser options. For most melasma-prone patients, we skip heat altogether and focus on treatments that cool, calm, and regulate pigment without triggering inflammation.
How We Treat Melasma (The Gentle, Long-Term Way)
Because melasma is chronic, we treat it like a marathon, not a sprint. We don’t believe in harsh bleaching creams or aggressive treatments that damage the skin barrier. Instead, we take a holistic, long-term approach focused on consistency, barrier support, and pigment regulation.
Here’s what we often recommend:
AM Routine:
Brightalive Skin Brightener – A hydroquinone-free, non-irritating brightening serum that helps reduce melanin production and improve skin clarity over time
Antioxidants & vitamins – To reduce inflammation and help skin fight off free radical damage
Sunscreen – Every. Single. Day. No exceptions. Even indoors.
PM Routine:
Retinol Complete – A gentle but effective retinol that encourages cell turnover and pigment regulation
Brightalive again – Yep, it’s safe enough for both morning and night!
We stay away from hydroquinone unless absolutely necessary. While it’s a powerful pigment-fighter, it works by essentially bleaching the skin and has to be cycled off to avoid long-term damage or rebound pigmentation. We’re all about keeping the skin strong and resilient—so gentle but effective is our vibe.
In-Office Treatments That Actually Work
-Microneedling with PRF (Platelet-Rich Fibrin)This regenerative treatment uses your body’s own healing factors to improve skin texture, stimulate collagen, and help regulate pigment. It’s a great option for melasma because it works without heat or harsh chemicals.
-Chemical Peels (Customized)We offer gentle yet effective peels that are safe for melasma-prone skin, like the VI Peel Precision Plus. These work by lifting surface pigment and stimulating cell turnover—without compromising your skin barrier.
Melasma can be frustrating, but it’s absolutely manageable with the right care and consistency. The key is to work with your skin, not against it—avoiding triggers like heat, UV, and harsh products, while building a solid skincare routine that supports and protects your skin long-term.
If you’re ready to get serious about your melasma, we’re here for you with personalized skincare plans and safe, effective treatment options that actually work.
Summer is here—let’s keep that skin clear. Book your consultation with us to get started on your journey to brighter, healthier skin.
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